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Cool sea air and yeasty nose, then a taut and precise full-powered palate, serious but chewy. Demands attention but there's a lovely deep bed of red fruit swimming beneath that makes it worth it.
Coessens’ NV Brut Blanc de Noirs l’Argillier L09 represents a mainstay cuvee of the estate that he disgorges quarterly. (In June, I tasted a bottle of this 2008-based cuvee just one month old but seemingly no worse for it.) Freesia and rowan; pistachio and almond extracts; apple, Ranier cherry and quince combine for a hauntingly alluring aromatic display that reminded me slightly of a Vouvray or Montlouis. On a silken-to-creamy palate, a striking sense of transparency allows for persistent, liquid expression of the aforementioned floral perfumes, accompanied by nuances of salinity, chalkiness, and struck-flint pungency. In the satisfyingly juicy and interactive finish, nine grams of residual sugar are not the least bit evident as such. This lovely bottling ought to show well for at least a couple of years.