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Located in the small village of Sury-en-Vaux in the heart of the Sancerre appellation, Vincent Gaudry cultivates 11 hectares of Ecocert and Demeter-certified vines (90% Sauvignon Blanc, 10% Pinot Noir). Still relatively unknown in the US, this producer is one of the best kept secrets of the appellation. The terroir-driven wines are superb in their vitality, finesse and precision, and the finishes are spectacular. This is one of my favorite Sancerre producers. Vincent, whom I have not met so far, joined his father in 1991 when he was 16 years old and took over completely in 1993. In 1995, he began conversion to organic and then biodynamic farming. He was most probably the first in Sancerre who went biodynamic. The domaine has vineyards on all of the three main terroirs of Sancerre (caillottes, silex and terres blanches) and a high percentage of old vines, which are replaced by massale selection. In warm and dry vintages, such as 2018, 2019 and 2020, this is a tremendous advantage. Highly recommended.
Gaudry's 2019 Sancerre à mi-chemin Vincent comes from a place called "Les Bouloises" that was planted in high density (7,000 vines per hectare) with Sauvignon on ferruginous flint soils 35+ years ago. Vinified and aged in oak barrels for 24 months, as was traditionally done in the last century, and bottled unfiltered, this opens with a deep and intense yet pure and spicy-complex as well as yeasty bouquet of ripe fruits, silex and warm oak. Mouth-fillingly rich on the palate but also refined and elegant, with precise and focused mineral acidity that carries this full-bodied and complex wine to an intense, sustainable and youthfully refreshing finish, this is a great Sancerre made in a very traditional style. It's pretty different from the 2020 Mélodie at first sight (oak, texture, acidity), but on the finish and lingering aftertaste, this wine reaches the same dramatic heights and leaves the same saline impression on the palate. When preserving acidity was a main problem in 2019, here it wasn't, thanks to biodynamic farming and wise winemaking. 13% stated alcohol. Natural cork. Tasted in March 2022.